Kancheepuram.. The temple city

Shantha Vishwanath, my dear mother-in-law, was born in the temple city of Kancheepuram in 1943. She frequently reminisces about her childhood days spent with her grandparents. She remembered visiting the temples holding her grandmother's hands as a young girl. Holidays were spent playing with her cousins on the open terrace of the large house. The house had a central courtyard. From the balcony, there were windows to look down at the courtyard's activities. Essential family functions were held there, leading to the gathering of near and dear ones. All relatives converged on the grandparent's house for summer vacations, and simple pleasures were looked forward to. 

Happy to be in her city Kancheepuram

Our mind has a special place for storing these memories, and sometimes, as we age, it is enshrined, lending possibly a more golden hue than it actually was! But then, the 1950s and 60s were a different time and era - barefoot walks in the cities, sitting on the ground in the front row to watch the latest movie release, quietly crunching a kamarkkand (a local sweet famous there) and endlessly chattering with relatives without a care for the world or the future. 

City of Thousand Temples

Kancheepuram is known as the city of Thousand Temples. The temples of  Kancheepuram are known for their architecture, 1000 pillared halls, and large temple towers. The skyline of this city is dotted by temple towers that bear testimony to the sculptors of ancient India. The beauty of each temple is matchless and an absolute wonder to the eyes. 

Garlands for the Amman

Shantha Amma's long-cherished desire was to revisit the city of Kancheepuram and go around the temples and houses she had enjoyed as a child. To make up the triumvirate for the trip, we had Sashikala Seshan, a loving and charming cousin (my Akka) who is 83 this year. Sashi Akka was one of the leading promoters of my marriage and is very close to my heart. She is a strong-willed lady, having been through life in varied fortunes and coming out unfazed and happy each time. For Shantha's upcoming 80th birthday this year, we started with a visit to her home city. 

Stopping for Chai and Bourbon 

The drive to Kancheepuram from Bangalore took 5 hours, with a stopover. We started from home at 5 am, reaching Kancheepuram by 1030 am. We booked into our hotel, and after a coffee break, we visited the places which Amma chose. We had a list of eight temples on our agenda. 

Ulagalantha Perumal Kovil

This temple takes its name from the Vamana Avatar of Lord Vishnu. Per the inscriptions, this temple was built by Nandiarma 3 in 846 and later renovated by the Pallavas and Cholas. This temple is one of the 108 Divya Desams. 

Temple facade

 Kailasanathar Kovil.

Kailasanathar temple is the oldest temple in Kancheepuram. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is the earliest example of Pallava architecture. The uniqueness of this temple is the 16-sided shiva linga carved out in black granite. The temple's outer courtyard is the numerous sub-shrines and pillars decorated with sculptures and reliefs of deities. 

Greatful to be here

This ancient temple is known for the intricately carved collection of art of Tamil tradition. The courtyard's inner walls have cells covered with mural art. There are 58 small shrines dedicated to various Shiva forms, built into the compound wall's niches. The pillars depict mythical animal shapes that are the features of the Pallava style.

Temple inscriptions

Kamakshi Amman Kovil. 

The temple of Kamakshi is the primary temple associated with Kachipuram/s rich heritage. The Kanchi Kamakshi temple has existed from time immemorial as per beliefs. It is one of the critical Shakti Peethas of our country. The original structure is thought to have been built by the Pallava Kings around 1600 years ago. Adi Shankaracharya set up the Sri Chakra at this temple. The Goddess Kamakshi is in a seated position. The day we visited, Goddess wore a v red saree and looked resplendent. As we sat in the inner sanctum and soaked in her vibrations, all I thought was this image of Goddess would never leave my mind. Coming out, we walked around the elaborate temple complex. The golden gopuram shimmers and shines on the top of the main sanctum. We caught a glimpse of the gopuram from near the temple tank. The temple is surrounded by a vibrant street market with several saree shops. 

By the temple pond

As per beliefs, the Kanchi Kamakshi temple has existed since time immemorial. In the documented past, Adi Shankaracharya set up the Sri Chakra at this temple and depending on when you agree to place him in history, the dates could vary from 5th BCE to 8th CE. Archaeologically, the temple is about 1600 years old, going back to the days when the Pallava dynasty ruled this region and Kanchipuram used to be their capital.

Kumarakottam Kovil

Kumarakottam temple is dedicated to Lord Karthikeyan. This is one of the more prominent temples around the Kamakshi temple. Here we can see Lord Muruga in the standing position. This temple is located between the Ekambarashwar temple and the Kamakshi temple. 

Ekambareshwarar kovil

This vast temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is the biggest temple in Kancheepuram, whose gopuram measures a height of 59 meters. It is one of the significant Pancha Bootha Stalam. The lingam here is sandstone and linked to the Prithvi element. Parvati is worshipped as Elavarkuzhali. Ekambareshwarar temple boasts a 10000 pillared hall. There are rangoli designs all over the corridor. 

Vast temple premises

10000 pillared coridors

Vardharaja Perumal Kovil

This holy temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is also one one of the Divya Desams.

60 years association

What is the pull of these temple towns? Do you go because you want to or are beckoned? Irrespective of what it is, one comes away feeling privileged and special. How many things have these stones seen and heard? What is the true story? Standing tall and dignified amidst the current frenzy of modern life, from a distant and wondrous past, of which we can only imagine how it might have been but yet lending an immeasurable calm and bringing about a peace of mind. That is truly divine!